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Monday, April 16, 2012

Bark tanning salmon skins

Bark tanned salmon skin



I've been experimenting with bark tanning salmon skins for the past couple of months now. The main trick is to be able to remove enough membrane without weakening the skin while allowing the tannin solution to penetrate easily and quickly. Here I'll cover the options of both a more "risky" but quick job and a safer but longer one.

Using a more abrading tool like a toothed butter knife will remove more membrane and allow better penetration of the solution but will make it more likely to tear holes in the skin. Using the side of a spoon will not remove any membrane and therefore somewhat hinder the tanning process but there's less risk of damaging the skin. Either way, the final product is of the same quality: a surprisingly nice, beautiful leathery skin!








Here's the process.

First, get the largest uncooked salmon filet you can find or you may just end up with a tiny bit of skin you may not know what to do with.












Separate the skin from the flesh by pulling on it. You can use a dull knife to scrape off some clingy flesh but don't slice the skin! I find it easier to do this when the salmon is still slightly frozen.









If you're busy cooking the salmon and can't deal with the skin immediately you can fold it flesh side to flesh side and bag it before putting it in the freezer. Make sure there's no air in the bag or there could be some freezer burns. When you're ready to work the skin, remove it from the freezer and let it thaw a bit before unfolding it.

A scraped skin
Use the side of a spoon to clean out the remaining flesh and fat from the skin. Anything that the spoon can remove should be removed. If you're opting for the safer membraning option you can now proceed to the scaling part. If you're using a toothed butter knife or something similar make sure that the teeth are blunt and that you don't dig them perpendicularly into the skin. Instead, hold the knife at an angle and scrape the skin gently while holding it firmly with the palm of your other hand. The problem is that there's no real end to the membrane so it's a judgment call as to when you should stop. The first time I did this I removed a whole sheet of membrane and ended up tearing the skin. Since then I've just abraded it a bit without forcing it.


Scales on





Flip the skin over and remove the scales. The frozen filets I get have scales that slip off very easily so I just use the side of a spoon to do it. It may be harder to remove scales from a fresh fish.




After the scales are removed you'll still see the textured skin where the scales used to be, as shown in the picture below. It will make a very nice pattern in the final tanned skin.
Scales off

Rinse the skin in lukewarm water to get rid of residual scales as well as the sliminess.


tannin solution
Tannin solution diluted 1 to 5



Make some bark tea as described in my bark tanning post. It's not a good idea to start with a full-strength solution as it tends to tighten the outside fibers of the skin and prevent the tannins from getting further inside. Instead, use a diluted solution first. If you used a spoon to scrape the skin I recommend using a 1 to 10 solution: 1 pint of full-strength tea in 10 pints of water in a bucket. If you used a more abrading tool a 1 to 5 solution should work just as well.






Solution after about a week


Cover the bucket and check on the skin every other day or so, moving the skin around a bit to make sure it tans uniformly. You'll notice that the solution gets lighter and lighter while the skin takes on more and more of the color. Don't let the solution get too weak or the skin could start going bad. You'd be able to tell by the smell. You may notice some effervescence in the bucket. That's a normal reaction as the sugars in the tea start fermenting!




Scraping off the colored membrane





After about a week, if not enough membrane was removed at the beginning you'll see that some parts of the skin are colored and sort of peeling off while other parts remain fairly white.

Scrape off the colored membrane with the side of a spoon to remove it. It generally comes off as one thin sheet.

Then put the skin back into the tannin solution until it's uniformly colored.

Skins that were thoroughly membraned at the beginning should not need an additional scraping and should tan uniformly right away.


Uniformly tanned skins

At that point, get rid of the old solution and put the skin in a full-strength tannin solution for about another week. Move the skin around every day for best results. After that the skin should feel very thick and leathery. If so, it's ready. Otherwise, keep it in the solution until it does. Again, make sure the solution never gets too weak.

Rinse the skin with lukewarm water, getting rid of as many unfixed tannins as possible (ideally it should be rinsed until the water runs clear but I've never had enough patience to reach that point and I've never had any problems so don't sweat it too much).

Wring the skin gently and hang it to dry out of the sun. To speed up the process I sometimes wave it in front of the wood stove.

When the skin is just damp, rub some oil into it. I've used bear fat and coconut oil and they both work great. Start with a small amount of oil as it tends to go a long way. Rub it in both sides of the skin and remove any excess oil with a rag.

Let the skin dry a bit until it's just damp again then pull it width-wise by hand gently. Then pull it length-wise. Then return it to a neutral position (not stretched one way or another) so that it doesn't dry with big wavy sides. I generally do this by smoothing the skin out on a flat surface.

Hang the skin again for a few minutes then pull it both directions again. Repeat the whole process until the skin is completely dry (the skin will bounce back when pulled instead of remaining in a pucker).

Finished flesh side











Finished scale side







And there you have it. I'm sure you'll be surprised at how leathery the skin will feel!

For ideas on what to do with the skin check out books by Lotta Rahme. Most of them are in Swedish but a picture is worth a thousand words!
















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15 comments:

  1. Hi Xavier. I was wondering if any fish skin would do or if some are better than others? I'm thinking it would be nice to tan the skin of a larger fish so that I end up with fewer seams for a larger garment like a jacket.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello,
      I don't have any personal experience other than with salmon skin but I'm guessing a lot of fish skins can be tanned. They may just differ in their thickness/durability like any other animal. I do believe the skin of sturgeons was traditionally tanned. I haven't gotten them yet but I think Lotta Rahme's books have a lot of information about different fish skins: http://www.lottasgarveri.se/Tanningbooks.html

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  2. Hi Xavier,
    Thanks for posting this up! I was wondering how long the process will take include making the solution? I was thinking of doing this for a school project

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It takes about 30 minutes to gather up the bark, an hour to make the solution, two weeks of soaking, then 30 minutes or so to dry and soften.

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    2. Would you ever make any for purchase? I'm a small-scale maker and would love to try using this kind of more sustainable and less toxic material in my designs.

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    3. Hello,
      Thanks but I'm very busy right now and I don't have the time to make extra for sale. I don't know who else could be helping you out with that but I'll let you know if anybody comes to mind.

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  3. Hi Xavier,

    Thanks for all the tips :) I was wondering if you had any ideas of the recipe / proportion of the tanning liquid if I use bark powder instead of bark tea? Cause I live in a city and it's easier to get powder than trees!!!

    Thanks

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello,
      Looking into a book I have, they recommend using a total amount of 5 pounds of dried bark powder for each pound of dried fish skin you have (you probably don't have that much but I'll let you do the conversions). Then they put 1 pound of bark into a gallon of water to make the tea (not in an iron pot) and simmer for at least an hour. Then they take half that solution and mix it with an equal amount water for the first tanning bath. Then you can use the other half of the tea to re-strengthen the solution as needed. Boil more bark powder as necessary.
      I hope that helps!

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    2. Hello
      i had done it with powder of mimosa.but it smells fish.what can i do to put it off? thanks for your reply if you have one

      Delete
    3. Hmm, I do mine with Douglas Fir bark and it doesn't smell at all like fish. Maybe mimosa doesn't hide the fish smell well enough so you may want to try with more aromatic wood. Otherwise, you may try washing the skins with some warm water and mild soap to see if that does the trick.
      I hope that helps!

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    4. Thank you so much Xavier for your quick reply.i live in Italy,i m french and i don't know if can find douglas fir bark here .i ll try to wash them after .bye bye

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  4. Hi Xavier,

    Do you think the bark tanned fish skin can be dyed further for other color rather than red or brown from the tannin?If so, I wonder the new required color is not clear because it is mixed with an original red.Or should I find other tanning method to get the light color first ?


    Thanks,
    Jo

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello. The reddish color only comes from the Douglas Fir bark that I used. Using other tannin sources will give you different colors. I haven't really experimented with anything else considering that I just like using what I have on hand but I'm sure you can find sources giving your information about that. You should also check out the books by Lotta Rahme I talk about at the end of the post.

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    2. I have Lotta's two books on tanning and they are great. been tanning fish and shark for the last couple of years. turning out quite well! keep up the good work

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