Dogbane |
In our region, the most valuable plant fibers for cordage are from Dogbane (Apocynum cannabinum). Dogbane should be harvested in the Fall, after it has gone to seed, and is processed similarly to other similar plants like Stinging Nettle (Urtica dioica) or Milkweed (Asclepias speciosa).
Scraped Dogbane |
After harvest, trim the side branches off and hang the plants to dry head down.
When the stalks are dry, gently shave off the thin outer bark with a sharp knife held at an angle. If you lift up fibers when you do that you've already gone a little too far. It's better to have a little outer bark left than damaged fibers. The picture on the right hand side shows a dogbane stalk with a scraped center portion. The outer edges still have the outer bark on and you can see that it's very thin.
Next, starting from the top, crush the stalk flat between your fingers. Continue down the stalk, making sure that the split follows a straight line.
When you're done, turn the stalk a quarter turn and repeat the process. You should end up with four sections divided by four splits.
Split Dogbane |
Open the stalk flat by going up one of the slits with a finger. You'll see the pithy center surrounded by the woody stem; the fibers are on the opposite side.
Dogbane stalk opened flat |
Take about 3-4 inches of the split stalk between your fingers and break the woody stems. (Note: for plants with strong joints, where branches used to meet the stalk, like nettles, you need to break at or near the joint and separate the fibers there very slowly and carefully or they will break; thankfully, dogbane is much easier to deal with!)
Broken woody stems |
Separating the fibers from the wood |
Still holding the stems firmly in one hand, separate the wood from the fibers with the other hand, making sure that as much as possible of the fibers stays connected to what you still have in your hand.
Wood is removed from the fibers |
Now slide your hand another 3-4 inches and repeat the process, each time removing the wood from the fibers and keeping as many fibers intact as possible. In the end, you should end up with four broad strands of fibers.
Unprocessed Dogbane Fibers |
Separate the strands in two groups (two strands per group) and rub the fibers from each group between your palms, spinning them in the process. This will remove any remaining flakes from the outer bark and separate the fibers some more.
Processed Dogbane Fibers |
Now you should have two strands of processed fibers. To make reverse-wrap cordage, follow the directions given in a previous post. Dogbane cordage is very strong and can be used in many situations, including as a bow string and in nets submerged in water.
Dogbane Cordage |
Certain trees with a fibrous inner bark can also be used for cordage. Western Red Cedar (Thuja plicata) is one of them.
Get a strip of bark and separate the inner bark from the outer bark. You'll note that the fibers of the inner bark are tightly packed together and cannot be used as they are.
Strip of Cedar Bark |
Use a rounded hammer stone to pound the bark and different layers will start to separate.
Layers of Cedar Separating |
You can then separate those layers by hand, for both width and thickness. Here I take a thin layer about 1/4 inch wide and damp it lightly to help the fibers remain flexible during the twisting.
Cedar Strip |
Then twist two strips together as described previously to obtain the cordage.
Cedar Cordage |
If you keep on pounding the bark for a longer period of time, then the layers will separate into individual fibers.
Pounded Cedar Bark |
You end up with "soft-shredded" bark, which can also be used for cordage but it will be quite a bit weaker. Traditionally, that soft-shredded bark was used for diapers, napkins, towels, etc.
Soft-Shredded Cedar Fibers |
Smoldering Cedar Bark Cordage |
The inner bark of Cottonwood (Populus nigra) can be used in the same way. Get bark from a down tree if possible, as the fibrous inner bark can remain useable long after the tree's death. The inner bark of cottonwood trees doesn't need to be pounded as it comes off by itself in large bands of fibers.
Cottonwood Bark |
Cottonwood Inner Bark Fibers |
Get strands of the fibers and twist them into cordage. Sometimes it helps if the fibers are slightly damp. Cottonwood cordage is fairly weak so I usually just use larger strands to make thick cordage to hold things together temporarily.
Cottonwood Bark Cordage |
Though you can light up cottonwood bark like cedar bark above, I find that it produces a fairly toxic smoke so I never use it that way.
Willow bark can also be used in interesting ways.
Willow Wand |
Scraping Off the Outer Bark |
As with other plants, it is the inner bark that is used. Scrape off the outer bark with the back of your knife; that's the green part. The inner bark is white and fibrous. It's OK if a thin layer of light green remains stuck to it.
Then use a sharp knife to cut a slit lengthwise through the inner bark, as shown below.
Incised Inner Bark |
Unwrap the bark away from the wood underneath.
Peeling Off the Inner Bark |
Strands of Inner Bark |
You can then cut out strands of the desired thickness to twist together into cordage.
Willow Cordage |
After you've used the inner bark for cordage, you can also turn the wood into skeined willow. First, split the stem lengthwise into quarters.
Splitting the Willow Lengthwise |
Then, use a sharp knife to shave off the inside point of your triangular quarters, giving you somewhat flat pieces.
Skeining Willow |
You can then wrap the freshly skeined willow around an object to make it more beautiful or use it as weaving material for baskets. You can also dry it and store it for future use. Just soak it in water at least overnight for it to be pliable enough to use again.
Wrapped Skeined Willow |
Finally, I'll leave you with how to get fibers out of a yucca leaf. Yucca doesn't grow naturally where I live but people seem to like cultivating it as an ornamental so you shouldn't have any problem finding it.
Yucca Leaves |
Cut a fresh leaf from the plant, as low to the ground as possible.
Many people will tell you that you need to pound the leaves into a mush before you can scrape them off but I don't find that to be true.
Just place the leaf on a flat surface and scrape off the fleshy green part until you expose the white fibers beneath. Use the back of a knife or a stone scraper to do so.
Here is what it looks like after you've scraped one side.
Scraped Yucca Leaf |
Then flip the leaf over and scrape the other side until only the white fibers remain.
Scraping the Leaves to Expose the Fibers |
Then twist the fibers together into a cordage that's remarkably strong and beautiful.
Yucca Cordage |
Single Yucca Fiber |
Yucca fibers are actually so strong that they can be used individually as sewing thread!
Happy cordage making!
Good suggestions. For a closer-to-home spin on things, I wonder if you have you ever used Xerophyllum tenax (beargrass) in a way similar to Yucca I wonder? I seem to recall it at least being used for 'decorative work' in traditional basketry but perhaps it is not quite so resilient as to make long durable cordage proper. Something to try perhaps.. Anyway I know this is an old post but came across it & was curious. Cheers!
ReplyDeleteI have used beargrass to decorate baskets but I never thought of it for cordage. I don't live near beargrass but next time I come across some of it I'll definitely give it a try!
DeleteI've made some incredibly clean cordage with yucca fibers by retting the fibers for an extended period of time. Its very smelly, but the resulting fibers/threads are smooth and white. I've tried twisting these into threads (2-4 at a time) and weaving a fabric - the result felt like a hemp canvas.
ReplyDeleteI have also tried making cordage with Nolina (beargrass) - the fibers seem to twist together ok, but the resulting cordage is brittle and weak. I think the best way to use it is skeined for baskets or quick tie offs, it seems to maintain strength that way.
Thanks for writing this. :) I love it.
Thanks for sharing your experiences!
DeleteThank you Xavier, this is probably the most concise and clear piece on finding and prepping cordage materials I have seen anywhere. I would like, with your permission, to post and reprint it to use when I teach cordage giving you full credit, of course. Would that be OK with you? In the Pacific Northwest my favorites are cedar bark and nettle. In Hawaii I used Hau almost exclusively because it is so easy and plentiful and strong. Because Hau is also the best wood for starting friction fires I have ever used my friend Kekoa came up with the quote: "The question is: How? The answer is: Hau!" Hau is a mallow - Hibiscus tilliaceus. I have found that almost all members of Malvaceae (Mallow)family have strong inner bark fibers that are easily separated from the woody stems, even the annuals and herbaceous perennials, if they are mature. I have not used willow for cordage and now I am going to go straight out and try our common willow today, pussywillows and all!
ReplyDeleteThanks for the comment. I've never tried using mallows. I'll have to do that next time I get the chance. And yes, please feel free to use this resource in any way you see fit.
Delete