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Wednesday, November 7, 2012

Storing Deer Hides

Salted deer hides
A Stack of Deer Hides


Hunting season has come and gone and I replenished my store of deer hides for another year. 

If possible, I flesh and scrape as many hides as possible in the fall so that I can dry them and store them like that the whole winter before I soften them when the warm days return.

However, I often get so many hides at once that I can't possibly deal with them all so I have to store them while they're still green.

Of course, you can always freeze your hides. However, even if we had a freezer that wouldn't be my preferred option as a hair-on hide takes a whole lot of room.

Just hanging the hides and letting them dry is not a great idea because the grain will dry into the skin and be extremely difficult to remove.




So my favorite option is to wet-salt each hide. Though it's not necessary to flesh the hide before salting it I generally do so because fleshing doesn't take that much time and there's less of a chance of the hide going bad if there are no big chunks of meat and fat attached to it. Still, in a pinch you can leave the hide unfleshed and salt it heavily.

wet-salted deer hide
Salted Hide


I use some cheap fine salt, generally called hay salt or solar mixing salt. It costs around ten dollars for a 50 pound bag, which should salt about 5 large hides.

While the hide is still green (not in color, which would mean it's rotting, but fresh or not dried out) I cover the entire surface with a thin layer of salt, making sure to unfurl any edges so as not to miss any spot. Don't skimp on it; a little too much is better than too little. Still, there's no need to have an inch thick of salt on the hide. Just a thin layer that covers everything will be great.

If I have a stack of hides to salt, I pile them fully open one over the other, flesh to flesh. If I have an odd number of hides I just fold the last hide in half. I tuck in any wild edges so that they do not dry and I wrap the whole stack in tarps so that there's no air flow.

 



I put the stack of salted hides at a slight incline so that they can drain (the salt will pull out some extra moisture so that if you store them in a container right away you'll end up with a pool of bloody liquid at the bottom).


Stored salted hides
Stored Hides




After about a week the draining should stop, at which point the hides will be ready to store for several months, or years even. I generally fold two hides together, still flesh to flesh, usually once lengthwise and once widthwise so that they form a neat little packet that can be lifted somewhat easily (they're still heavy!).

I usually store those salted hides in a large trash can with a lid until I need them.

 




When I do need them, I pull them out of their container and push out the extra salt, which I keep for the next time (that salt won't be as effective as brand new salt but it will do the job for a while anyway). Then I rinse the hide very thoroughly with a hose before I soak it to prepare it to be scraped (I'm working on a braintanning video right now to explain all the steps involved but it won't be ready for a while). Make sure all the salt is rinsed off or it will delay bacterial actions during soaking, and make sure the salt doesn't end up on some plants you'd want to keep alive.
























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17 comments:

  1. Interesting to see how someone else stores hides! I'm your newest follower, and I hope you can stop by my blog at possumhillfarms.com.

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  2. I do not have an area to store salted and want to freeze. How do I do this> ? Thanks

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. If you can, it's best to remove the hair before you freeze the hides, as the hair takes a lot of room in a freezer. You can learn how to scrape off the hair on my hide-tanning videos here: http://sustainablelivingproject.blogspot.com/2013/10/brain-tanning-deer-hide.html
      But if you have room, just fold the hide skin to skin, with the hair on the outside, fold the hide and put it in a plastic bag, squeeze out as much air as possible to prevent freezer burn, and then put it in your freezer. That's all.

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  3. I have 2 sheep hides just fleshed and salted- the wool was wet. Have them salted flesh to flesh, but should I leave them next to wood stove so wool will dry? Will it harm them to store with wet wool?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Teri,
      I'm so sorry I haven't replied earlier. My comment-moderating setting was changed for whatever reason and I never saw your comment before now.
      The wool being wet is fine. This process is actually called wet-salting and you do not want the hide to dry, which is why you wrap them in a tarp. As long as you covered the hide with enough salt the moisture will not do any damage.

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  4. Hi there! I want to try this with my hides! So after you salted then where do you put then to drain outside in the sun?

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    Replies
    1. Hi Leny,
      A shaded cool place would probably be better but it doesn't really matter as long as the hide is salted very well and you make sure to cover it with something well enough that there's no air flow so it doesn't dry.

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    2. And it seems like maybe you're the same person who left me a question on my Youtube channel about tanning sheep hides. For some reason I can't reply to it there so I'll do it here. Please note that this article is just about storing hides. If you want to actually salt-tan a sheep hide you have to leave the salt on the wet hide for several months to let the salt penetrate all the way through the hide. I usually keep my hides wet-salted for at least 6 months but it's possible they'd be ready in just a couple of months.

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  5. I have a hide that we nailed to the side of a building for lack of time or knowledge on what the heck to do with it.
    I am about to slaughter 6 lambs and sheep so would like advice on processing the hides. I saw your U-tube videos. But I can't seem to find yours on fleshing the skin before salting.
    Am I correct that you salt before you stretch them out but flesh before salting?? Thank you in advance for your help with this.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hey,
      My fleshing video can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qaVx5hde47c
      So yeah, flesh the hide, salt it, store it at an incline while making sure it doesn't dry out, like described in this post. Then I'm not quite sure how long the salt tanning process actually takes. I usually salt the hides in the fall then pull them out of storage in the summer time. They may be ready in a shorter amount of time but don't know for sure. Then stretch on the rack like described in the sheep tanning videos.

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  6. I have a deer cape that was not completely fleshed or lips and nostril's not split and ears not completely turned the hide has been heavily salted and dried can this hide stilled relaxed fleshed and tanned

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I don't have any experience dealing with lips, nostrils, and ears so I'm not sure whether they'll still be good or whether they would have rotted. For the rest, I don't let my hides dry because the grain tends to be very difficult to remove. But I guess that's only a problem if you want to scrape off the hair. Either way, you could give it a try and see how it goes. Right now I'd wash the salt away and then let the hide soak until it's pliable. Then flesh it well and proceed from there.

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  7. Awesome post Xavier, thanks for making this information available. I have a hide that I got yesterday and I've followed all the steps, but I wondering what temperature you should do this at. Could I do it in a heated building?

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    Replies
    1. Yes, once salted I leave my hides outside in 90 degrees weather and they do just fine, so a heated building should be no problem at all.

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  8. We slaughtered a lamb here last fall. Actually two. Long story - but one of the hides I deemed not worthy to keep. The other, I salted. I didn't scrape first though. I just salted and salted again. And now it's summer and it is a bit stiff but dried. Should have come here first and scraped the sheep skin first before salting. Is it too late to try your approach from the videos to try and sand/scrap/pumice away the bits of flesh/fat/blood that I salted over? The salt and time definitely ate some away, but still some there. Would love to try and stretch/hang and clean the front and back and cut it. But don't want to waste my time if I am too backwards here.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Mike,

      What I would do at this point is to rehydrate the hide. Just dunk it in warmish water until it's supple again. Pull on it a little once in a while to open the fibers of the skin and let the water get in there. When it is supple you can go ahead and flesh the hide well with a wet scraper (watch how to do this here: http://sustainablelivingproject.blogspot.com/2013/10/brain-tanning-deer-hide.html). It will be yucky to deal with wet flesh and fat but that's what you gotta do.
      If you want to keep the hair on and salt tan it you might have to resalt it and store it again for a while for the salt to have an effect. I'm not sure whether all the flesh and fat prevented the salt from having an effect on the hide itself. Then you'll be able to proceed as on my sheep tanning videos.

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  9. This comment has been removed by the author.

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