How to Tan a Beaver Hide with the Hair On

Beaver Hide in a Frame

In this post I will show you how to tan a beaver hide using the dry-scrape method so we can preserve the hair and end up with a beautifully brain-tanned pelt.

In the following first video I describe the basic set up and tools and I show you how to scrape the hide using the dry scraper, including how to sharpen the tool. 

If you need more instructions on how to make a frame and lace up the hide into it, please watch my sheep skin tanning videos here; start with Part 1 at the 2:15 mark and then Part 2 before coming back here.

Dry Scraper

Here is a close up of the angle of the dry scraper on the hide while you scrape. 

Don't put pressure on the scraper while it is immobile on the hide or you could tear through it. Instead, start with a smooth motion as your scraper contacts with the hide.

You can buy dry scrapers at braintan.com.

Beaver Hide Being Scraped

Here is a shot of the hide being scraped. Note the long thick shavings, indicative of a sharp scraper.

Also note the change in color in the hide as you scrape. It becomes lighter and lighter in color until it is almost completely white.








In the following video I show when you can tell that you've scraped the hide enough. At the end, the whole hide is whitish, thin, and has a give to it. It's a very tactile thing difficult to express in words but feel the hide repeatedly throughout the process and compare the thinned parts to the parts that are still thick; it's very noticeable.

Beaver Hide

Here is a close up of the texture of the hide. The white part has been shaved down to the appropriate thickness while the dark part hasn't been scraped.















After you're done scraping the hide check out the following steps to brain and soften it by watching the how to braintan a deer hide videos here; Watch part 2 starting at the 2:45 mark, then part 3 starting at the 21:40 mark.

The main differences between braintanning the deer hide vs the beaver hide is that for the beaver hide we'll use water that is just slightly less hot. The warmer the better but you must be able to keep your hand in it comfortably or the grain of the hide may blister. 

Also, instead of wringing out the beaver hide very thoroughly as done in the beginning of part 3 for the deer, we'll just wring the beaver hide by squeezing it with the hands only and then let it dry in the sun until it is just barely moist and can be put back in the brains for a second and then third braining.

Then watch part 4 of the deer hide tanning videos to know how to soften the hide. With the beaver hide, only work the flesh side and never the hair side.

Then watch the other parts to fix holes and to get the hide ready to be smoked. Again, only smoke the flesh side and not the hair-on side.

I've set up all the videos necessary at the appropriate time marks in a playlist on youtube so you can watch them here: http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL0eYQ9KlgirVvaLqKAwg3Hv3vwBee4ZMA

Beaver Hide on Smoker

Here is the beaver hide set up on the smoker, with a long skirt attached to it so that the hair is not damaged.

Beaver Hide

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